Vitamin Sea, part 6: Naxos

Next day (June 11th) we left early to head north to Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades islands.  Unfortunately our route was right into the light winds so it was another day of motoring.  Kristien had arranged a slip in the marina but we had to arrive on the early side to make sure we had it (and also to leave time for exploring the old city).  

The old city is full of small alleyways and several Venetian buildings.  The town adjacent to the harbor area is very busy with tourist restaurants and shops.  We enjoyed a beautiful sunset from the waterfront.

We had planned two nights in the Naxos harbor; the next day we rented cars so that Kristien could give us a tour of some of the archaeological sites on the island.  We started at the Temple of Dionysus at Yria, which has been a site of religious ceremonies since the 14th century BCE.  The temple shown here is more recent: 5th century BCE.

Next we drove to the trail up to Zeus's cave (one of a few locations where he is believed to have spent his childhood).  The hike up to the cave was initially on a trail, but ended with a scramble over the rocks to the cave entrance.  Kristien pointed out old pottery shards littering the inside of the cave.

The Church of Panagia Drossiani dates to the 4th century and contains some frescoes (unfortunately not well preserved and fading) from the 6th century.  The church has received additions over the years so only part of what's shown here is the original structure.

For lunch Kristien took us to a small family-run restaurant in the small village of Koronos.  The town is built into the side of hill, and we had to walk down over a hundred stairs to get to the restaurant, but it was worth it.  The food was several courses, all amazing.

After lunch we drove on to the old quarry of Apollonas Kouros where there is a massive partially carved statue, believed to be of Dionysus.

We finished with a swim at the beach in the small village of Apollonas before driving back to Naxos harbor.

Vitamin Sea, part 5: Ano Koufonisia

It was a relatively short and easy sail from Schinousa to Ano Koufonisia.  We had a slip in the harbor so could come and go without needing the dinghy.

There's a beautiful walking path along the southeast and eastern sides of the island which passes several great swimming beaches, tiny coves and lovely rocky headlands.  We worked our way all the way to Paralia, had a nice lunch, and then walked back.  All with stops to swim along the way.  The clear blue waters of the Aegean were brilliant everywhere.

Great dinner on shore at a place Kristien recommended.

Vitamin Sea, part 4: Iraklia and Schinoussa

Next day we sailed from our protected bay on Ios to Iraklia.  The winds were the strongest we'd experienced so far, and there were large swells in the ocean.  Kristien passed out life jackets for all of us to wear.  Sails were up, but both the main and Genoa were partially reefed.  It was a good test of susceptibility to motion sickness: three of us didn't pass and spent a fair bit of time feeding the fish.

At the little harbor on Iraklia we didn't have a slip, so we were tied up alongside another charter yacht which was itself tied up alongside a fishing boat.  In the same bay as the harbor there was a very nice swimming beach, complete with tree-shaded benches on the sand.  We enjoyed swimming in the bay and walking around the little village on shore, and a great dinner at Dimitri's restaurant.  We also bought bottles of local Raki and Rakomello (raki combined with honey and herbs) to enjoy on the boat after dinner.

Vitamin Sea on the far left

Little beach at Iraklia's harber in the far background

The following day the winds and seas were more mellow for our crossing to the nearby island of Schinoussa.  We were able to sail some of the time, but had to motor part of the way.  We stopped at a beautiful little protected bay for swimming before continuing to the harbor for the night.  Schinoussa is another quiet island, and we enjoyed walking around the small village before dinner.

Vitamin Sea, part 3: Folegrandos and Ios

We are now in the smaller Cyclades, and enjoying these less-visited islands very much.  Kristien anchored us in another lovely bay, with a beach and a few small restaurants available on shore.

Our plan was to visit the chora (old town) up on top of a hill.  While the others opted to taxi up, Ellen and I decided to walk.  I'd found a trail on my backcountry map, and it looked like only about a one hour walk.  Of course that one hour didn't allow for setting off first on what turned out to be a goat-herder's path and then backtracking to get on the correct trail, nor did it allow for the hot walking on rock paths in the sun.  Still, the views of the island and the cliffs descending to the sea were wonderful.

Retreating down the goat path

Vitamin Sea at anchor (furthest one out in the bay)

The chora was very nice, with lots of cute shops and places to grab a cold drink.  High above the chora sits the Panagia church.

View from the Panagia

Next day we sailed to Ios.  The winds were really picking up so we had some exciting sailing.  You'll notice that Kristien is wearing her pfd.  Guess she didn't have confidence in our man overboard skills.

Dave and Dick on the beach at Ios

We hadn't realized how much of a young person's party island this is until we dinghied in to the beach.  Loud music, dancing, flashing disco lights: just our scene. Still, it was a lovely beach and we rented some nice shade chairs to use while we weren't in the water.   While the rest of the gang took a bus up the hill to explore the old town, Ellen and I stayed on the beach and swam.

When we dinghied back to the boat, were amazed by how much the wind and waves had picked up.  After a brief talk with Kristien, I called the others and suggested they grab some quick take out for dinner and hustle back so we could move to a more protected bay for the night.  It was gusting 35 knots when they returned and we pulled up the anchor.  We motored a short distance to the next bay over which was much more protected.  But we could still see the flashing lights and hear the base of the music from party central.

Vitamin Sea, part 2: Sifnos

For our day on Sifnos, we set off on a hike to the Kastro (the old town/castle area) several km away.  Maybe you've read recently about tourists expiring from the heat while hiking in Greek islands; that could have been us.  It was a hot day, and the up and down hilly walk was often over rocky paths (which really magnify the heat).  Still, it was a beautiful walk with views of the ocean, past small bays, through old terraced fields, past grazing goats and small crops.  

The bay where we anchored on Sifnos

Last descent before climbing up the Kastro

By the time we made it to the base of the hill before climbing up to the Kastro, a couple of our group were really fading.  We guzzled cold drinks in the shade when we made it to the town, and walked around a bit.  We called a cab for the return trip to the bay where we'd anchored.

After a quick cool-off swim back at the boat, we set off for the island of Antiparos.  Winds cooperated and we were able to put out the sails.

Along the way we saw a flotilla of Greek naval ships.  We checked online and learned that they were engaged in exercises to discourage Russian oil vessels in the Eastern Mediterranean.  

We anchored off Antiparos, and took the dinghy to shore for a seafood dinner.  After dinner we moved a short distance to anchor off the adjacent island of Despotiko for the night.   In the morning we spent some time walking around the island.  Despotiko is now largely uninhabited and the site of what was a significant temple to Apollo dating to the sixth century BCE.   The archaeological site is undergoing excavation so we could only look at it from a distance.

Sunset over Despotiko

After our exploration on Despotiko we set sail for Folegandros, where we anchored in yet another lovely and peaceful bay.