Thursday, May 30, 2024

Hiking the Vikos Gorge

 Monday we drove from Kastrakis (the village where we'd stayed near Meteora) north to Monodendri, which is one of the trailhead towns for hiking the Vikos Gorge.

Along the way we stopped to walk around the walled city (from the Byzantine era) of Ionannina.





We arrived in Monodendri late in the afternoon, and had time to walk down to a monastery which looks over the gorge.  It's an impressive sight.



Tuesday early we set off on our hike.  From Monodendri the trail descends steeply to the Vikos River.  I had thought the next several miles following the river would be fairly flat, but the trail was quite challenging.  Many short climbs and descents, and lots of scrambling over rocks.  In several places there were fixed ropes to help with trickier spots.  More than half way through the hike a thunderstorm passed through, so we added rain and slippery rocks to the trail's challenges.  With all the constant up and down, we had about 9000 feet of vertical (ascending and descending) over about 8 1/2 miles of walking.  Below the village of Vikos we climbed back out of the gorge, where Panos from our hotel was waiting to drive us the 30 minutes back to Monodendri.


Starting out









Beginning the climb out





Sunday, May 26, 2024

On to Greece, exploring around Meteora

Friday we flew from Madrid to Athens.  Our accommodation there was the Varaba Country House, a lovely place set among grape vines and fig orchards near the airport.  Dave and Kathie arrived later that evening.

Next morning we returned to the airport to pick up a rental car, and set off toward Meteora, which is the site of many old monasteries perched on rock cliffs.  (You may have seen this in the Bond film "For Your Eyes Only.")   The monasteries were mostly built between the 13th and 14th centuries.



We arrived at the small village of Kastraki mid afternoon, had a meal of roasted pork and lamb, and then set off on the "Short loop" trail starting near our hotel.  It was very steep, and parts were also shared with mountain bikes (looked like a great trail to ride).



After about 1.5 miles Dave and Kathie turned around while Ellen and I continued the loop.  The trail circled around ridges and rock outcrops, and passed several monasteries.



Our trail map showed the route passing by the Holy Monastery of the Great Meteoron, but we were having trouble figuring out where it went next.  I found someone to ask in the parking lot, and confirmed that the trail descended steeply down stone steps the ravine below the monastery.  


Rain arrived but we eventually made it back to our hotel.  After a shower and hanging our wet clothes we headed back into the village for a light dinner.


Next day (Sunday) was another great one in Meteora.  After breakfast we drove up from town to see several of the monasteries.  The views from various pull-outs are magnificent.  






We stopped at the Great Meteoron to walk through and tour the site.  Women are not allowed in wearing pants, so they lent Ellen and Kathie wraps to wear as skirts.  Beautiful artwork everywhere at the monastery, including these paintings of Greek philosophers Pythagoras and Plato; the philosophers had equal billing with Catholic saints.




After a light lunch in town Dave, Ellen and Dan headed off on a hike to the Monk's prison.  It was a very steep and rugged trail through mostly forest, and the cave at the end wasn't much.  We could see carved out spots in the rock where (we surmise) timbers once rested to support floors.



We continued on another trail toward a nearby saddle, labeled Holy Spirit on the map, which was supposed to have a viewpoint.  What a treat.  After a rocky scramble up a very rough trail, we arrived at a flat spot with a small chapel cut into the rock.  A metal ladder took us up to the top of the rocks with a panoramic view of the valley below.












We descended another trail which brought us back to the village, where Kathie joined us for a celebratory beer.


Georgioupoli, Chania, and home

From Matala we headed north to Georgioupoli, another beach town but this one on the northern coast of Crete.  Along the way we stopped for a...